Rotation sizing and fit

September 10th, 2012

The Cookie Crumbs KAL group on Ravelry is also hosting a knitalong! Their members chose to knit the Rotation cardigan.

Rotation is a standard-fitting cardigan with asymmetrical fronts. The sizing notes give the chest measurement and suggest choosing a size with 0-4 inches of positive ease. For Rotation, which doesn’t close all the way down the front, you’ll get the most accurate fit by sizing by the cross-shoulder measurement.

I think proper shoulder fit is more important than chest, i.e. a little extra positive or negative ease in the chest is more forgiving but for proper drape the shoulders should hit at the right spot. In general, I would recommend that for all sweaters with set-in sleeves.

So much like I did for Conic, here are some photos of the Rotation cardigan on other people. The sample was knit in the 35″ size.

Rotation is pretty much perfect on me with 1″ of positive ease.

Rotation + Conic

Rotation + Conic

Kathy, who is 5’1″ (with heels on) and slim, should actually be wearing the 32.5″ size instead of the 35″ – see how the shoulders are too large?

Kathy in Rotation

Eileen is much taller than Kathy but is also slim. She might also choose to knit the smallest size.

Rotation + Obtuse

With 5″ of negative ease in the sample, Gus might be more comfortable in the 37.5″ or even the 40″ sweater. A larger size would drape better in front.

Rotation + Quotient

The Rotation sample was knit in The Plucky Knitter Primo Fingering, a merino-cashmere-nylon blend fingering weight yarn. It’s got a lot more bounce than the Malabrigo Sock that Conic was knit in.

You can see all the photos of Rotation on flickr by clicking on the Rotation tag.

Casting on for Conic

September 6th, 2012

Veronica, Gus, and I have cast on for Conic, and we’ve been joined by other knitters in the Cookie A Socks and More group on Ravelry.

Conic is knit beginning with the back, which is knit top-down. After the back is finished, you pick up (and cast on) for the sleeves, which are then knit in the round to the cuff. Finally, you knit ribbing all the way around the body.

Here’s the start of my Conic in Socktopus Sokkusu Original.

This is what the finished back looks like.

Veronica has started her Conic in a brown silk and wool yarn.

Here’s Gus’s nifty cast-on photo (hooray Instagram!)  She is using some beautiful Wollmeise sock yarn that she got from her recent trip to Munich. Lucky girl got to make the pilgrimage to the actual Wollmeise shop!

After seeing Veronica, Gus, and I all working on Conic at knit night, Abigail has decided to join us too! She’s allergic to wool and most animal fibers and had a hard time finding an appropriate yarn that wouldn’t set her back a fortune. She swatched some Soie Naturelle from her stash which she hand dyed earlier. She’s still not sure about the color but figures if she doesn’t like it, she can overdye the finished garment. She is getting 5.5 stitches to the inch instead of the 6.5 called for in the pattern. For the back, she will go down a size, but we may need to do some arithmetic for the sleeves.

We’d love for you to join us and knit along on any of the sweaters from Shapes + Form here on the Ravelry group: Shapes + Form Knitalong!

The Knitter Loves Shapes + Form

September 4th, 2012

Issue 49 of UK based The Knitter magazine hits news stands today, and Shapes + Form is highlighted in their “The Knitter Loves” series on page 8!

Cookie A designs take shape

US designer Cookie A is one of a new breed of superstar knitters, with thousands of projects on knitting community website Ravelry.com made from her incredibly intricate sock patterns. Now Cookie has branched out into garment design, launching Shape and Form, a complete collection of eight garments and five accessories based on mathematical concepts.

She said: “Socks are different from garments, in that there is not much room to change the form of a sock. Garments are less restrictive in form. Instead of fitting a texture onto a rigid form, I experimented with taking shapes and using them in unusual ways to create forms that could still be worn as garments.” We’re struggling to decide which pattern to start knitting first!

Buy the patterns via www.ravelry.com/stores/cookie-a-knitwear

Dreaming of Iceland in summer

August 31st, 2012

 

It’s been a little while, but better late than never: there are two prize winners for finishing projects from June’s sock club shipment.

Sock club knitters loved the Plucky Knitter yarn last month and found some great inspiration from Iceland.

The random number generator at Random.org helped choose the lucky winners – coincidentally, they both happen to be from Texas, and they both knit both Solfar and Reykjavik! Congratulations to Kim and Leslie. I’ll be sending out a skein of Plucky Knitter Plucky Feet to each of you, as well as an Icelandic knitting book and a little goodie from my trip to Iceland.

 

Conic – want to knit along?

August 29th, 2012

Conic is one of the runaway hits of the Shapes + Form collection with over a thousand hearts on Ravelry. Local-to-me knitters Veronica, Gus and I have decided to do a little  Conic knit-along. I have some beautiful Socktopus Sokkusu in grey from the lovely Alice Yu. Gus picked up some gorgeous turquoise Wollmeise sock yarn while she was in Germany, and Veronica found some rich chocolate brown wool and silk yarn in her stash. The original sweater was knit in Malabrigo Sock, but any light fingering weight yarn with a soft hand and good drape is probably a great choice.

The sizing notes say to choose a size with positive ease using the waist measurement which may seem kind of odd to size a shrug based on the waist. The reason is that the arms and body are extremely forgiving with small incremental differences in the neck, arms, and body between the sizes. If the wrists of the sleeve are tight, it’s easy to modify the pattern to have fewer decreases in the sleeve for better fit. The larger difference comes in at the waist as the back gets wider, and I recommend some positive ease there for movement, but I like my sweaters pretty drapey. If you want a snugger fit, and depending on where your weight is distributed, you can get away with less ease than recommended.

Here is the Conic sample sweater, knit in the smallest size, on Eileen who has a 36 inch bust and 26 inch waist.

Conic on Eileen

Here it is on me. I’m a lot shorter at 5’3″, have much broader shoulders than Eileen, but my waist is 27 inches and bust is 34 inches.

Pivot + Conic

Here it is on Veronica. She is 5’5″ with a 30 inch waist and 37 inch bust.

Conic on Veronica

I don’t have Kathy’s measurements, but she is 5’1″ and tiny!

Kathy in Conic

And finally on Gus, who’s 5’4″ with a 40″ bust and 34″ waist.

Rotation + Conic

Conic fits Eileen and Veronica well and has a little more ease on Kathy. By her measurements, Gus might have chosen to knit the next larger size, but the smaller size still works well on her. You can see more fit pictures of all the garments in my Flickr collection.

I’m itching to cast on. If you want to join, I started an informal knitalong thread in the Cookie’s Socks and More group on Ravelry.

 

 

Shapes + Form available on Ravelry

August 15th, 2012

Shapes + Form is now available through Ravelry! You can buy the whole collection for $18 or purchase patterns individually.

Cookie A Knitwear Volume 1: Shapes + Form

Here’s the introduction which I think sums it up pretty well:

This is my first foray into publishing sized garment patterns, though I’m certainly not new to sweater knitting. Those who are familiar with my sock patterns may be surprised by this collection at first glance. The majority of my knitwear design so far has been socks, and the design features usually focus on texture. On closer inspection, the same principles that I enjoy applying to socks are also applicable to sweaters: Taking pieces and fitting them together like a puzzle to form a functional whole.

Socks are different from garments in that there is not much room to change the form of a sock—at the end of the day, the sock still has to fit on a foot. Garments on the other hand are less restrictive in form. As long as there are holes for the arms and the piece can drape around the body, there is actually a great deal of leeway in what constitutes a pullover or cardigan. Instead of fitting a texture onto a rigid form, I experimented with taking shapes and using them in unusual ways to create forms that could still be worn as garments.

Being mathematically inclined, I borrowed concepts from geometry, algebra and topology. Some are fairly straightforward in their meaning. Parallelogram is a scarf or shawl pattern with a parallelogram shape, Rectangle is a rectangle with two holes to form a draped and textured vest., and Conic has cone shaped sleeves-. Cylinder and Quotient both borrow from topology and the concept of “glueing” flat pieces into 3-dimensional ones in much the same way that Möbius strips and Klein bottles are formed.

There are 13 patterns in the booklet—8 garments and 5 accessories patterns. Some of the accessories patterns use the same textures and yarn as garment patterns found elsewhere in the collection and were originally intended as leftover yarn projects. Some of the yarns used for the garments come in very generously sized skeins, and you may find yourself with a decent amount leftover.

Here’s a look at some of the patterns and Laura Kicey’s awesome photography. This is Parallelogram (Ravelry link) which is… a parallelogram. There are two sizes: a narrower scarf version and the shawl shown. It’s knitted from tip to tip using a welted knit / purl diamond pattern.

This is one of my favorite photos. Slant (Ravelry link) is a great leftover yarn project worked in Miss Babs Yowza:

And Conic seems to be a runaway favorite so far. I am going to admit something too… The smallest size is shown and it barely used just over 2 skeins of Malabrigo Sock yarn, weighing in at 203g. Of course, I added extra yardage to the pattern Just In Case, but I thought you should know that if you are that size, you could probably get a whole pair of socks too. Or maybe shorten the sleeves just a smidge to get it out of two skeins.

I’m hoping to round up some friends this week to take photos of the sweaters on “real people” to show how the fit varies with body shape, since I know that’s always a concern. Yay, sweaters!

Shapes + Form sneak peek

August 14th, 2012

I’ve put together a pdf lookbook for the upcoming collection that will be released tomorrow. Click to download the pdf!

Edited to add: I was so excited earlier when I posted that I left out all the details! Patterns will be available individually or as a whole collection. There are 8 garments and 5 accessories (yes, there is one sock pattern). Individual patterns will range from $5 to $7, and the e-book will be $18. There is a possibility of a print edition, but I’m not completely sure yet. Of course that means I haven’t ordered a printing, so if the print version becomes a reality, it would be released near the end of September.

Daphne and Velma

August 13th, 2012

August has been busy! It’s also time to release two more patterns from last year’s sock club, featuring Metamorphosis yarn from A Verb For Keeping Warm.

Kristine Vejar, owner and dyer of A Verb For Keeping Warm, uses natural dyeing processes that she learned while studying in India. Like me, she was born and raised in the Midwest but now lives and works in the San Francisco Bay Area. We both share a love for current and past fashions, and the color idea sprang from a discussion about honeysuckle, the Pantone Color of the Year for 2011. Metamorphosis has a 70% merino / 30% silk composition. The silk gives the yarn strength and a little sheen, but it also gives the sock a rustic look.

The color, as well as the design, for Daphne is feminine but a little nerdy. The ebbing lace pattern is simple but showcases the texture of the yarn. As always, I incorporated a rib that flows into the pattern.

Get a copy of the Daphne pattern for yourself:

Where Daphne is feminine and flirty, Velma is more blunt and has a little extra depth. Swathes of stockinette create an almost swirling V from the side profile which are separated in the front by garter stitch diamonds. Depending on what angle you view Velma from, you might find the pattern blunt and textured, or you might find it elegant and sophisticated. Either way, Velma is a lot of fun and not just what first meets the eye.

Get a copy of the Velma pattern for yourself:

These are not socks

August 6th, 2012

Well, if you hadn’t guessed by now what’s going on… yep, those are sweaters on that chair.

And here’s a little sneak peek at the yarn…

That’s Stonehedge Fiber Mill Shepherd’s Wool, Lorna’s Laces Shepherd Worsted, Miss Babs Yowza, and Berroco Ultra Alpaca across the back row… Quince & Co. Osprey, Shepherd’s Wool again, Wollmeise Lacegarn, and Quince & Co Finch across the middle, and The Plucky Knitter Primo Fingering and Malabrigo Sock down in front.

I’m busy putting the finishing touches on everything. Keep your eyes peeled here on the blog, Ravelry, and CookieA.com for lots more information and the big launch on the 15th!

 

Something’s brewing

July 28th, 2012

New things are happening here at Cookie A Knitwear HQ… if you think most of those swatches don’t really look like sock yarn, you may be on to something.

You may have seen the ad in the latest issue of Interweave Knits.

The count down begins!